Old Dhaka Weddings: Of flavours and traditions

In Old Dhaka, while couples unite in holy matrimony, family and friends celebrate over a hearty helping of polao and meat dishes. Kachchi biriyani has emerged as the quintessential wedding dish, but a flashback to the bygone days will probably remind one of saffron-infused murg polao. So, how did Old Dhaka’s palate change from a love for decadent chicken recipes to a mutton staple? This is that story — one of taste, family, and much more.

A history of flavours

From Chawk Bazar, an eight-minute walk through Jail Road will take you to our destination: 48 Abul Hasnat Road. Residents of this establishment are the illustrious Syed family. Their household is a witness to the confluence of culture that has taken place in the old town, as they have lived in this same location for more than three centuries.

“If you talk about wedding food, you must appreciate that assimilation of traditions has taken place and there is no longer an exclusive ‘Dhakaiya menu.’ This was not the case even five decades ago,” said Syed Ahmed Ali, who himself is a food connoisseur. “True, certain customs are still very much in place, but at the end of the day, it is kachchi, chicken roast, and rezala that reign supreme,” he added with a smile.

Perhaps, the diversity in an Old Dhaka wedding lies not in the preparation of the dishes, but in its epicurean culture, how a long list of food-related rituals makes it the centre stage of all Old Dhaka weddings.

Unique events, delectable foods

Zeenat Parveen serves as the president, Jahanara Foundation Museum located at Bangshal and has been a keen observer of the Dhakaiya lifestyle for decades.

“Weddings are an elaborate affair for the people of old Dhaka, starting with the paanchini, jamai khawon, balabali, and the biye. They are then followed by a series of post-wedding events like boubhat and firani,” Parveen says.

She adds, “At one point in time, each of these events had features unique to the locality and the community that lived there. To this day, the paanchini or baatpakka, for instance, remains a significant event in Old Dhaka weddings.”